LAVIDA electronics 

JUAL-BELI ELEKTRONIK 

AC-CHILER-KULKAS-LCD-AC DUCTING

Jl.kusbini 409,klitern lor yogyakarta

jl.yogya-wonosari km 11,5 klenggotan

jl.wonosari-yogya km 6,5 gading2,wonosari

CLEANING AC 2 UNIT

FREE ISI FREON 

CP:087739516497-085643096217 

(RUDY PRADIKA)

lavida.electronics@yahoo.co.id

lavidaelektronik@gmail.com

CLEANING AC-PEMASANGAN AC-SERVICE AC- 

SERVICE KULKAS-SERVICE MESIN CUCI WD/TABUNG-

	First check the install kit. Refrigerant lineset and wire harness are your main components
	Other Miscellanous items
	Your compressor
	Locate the wire with black connector from inside the indoor unit, this is where one end of your defrost wire will be connected.
	The defrost wire is the grey wire that comes in the package and is shown connected on the right. The other grey tube is your drain pipe coming out of the indoor unit. The white insulation has copper tubings inside.
	One more look at everything.
	Once the prep work is done, you can install the indoor unit wall bracket on the wall. In this case we chose to go out from the right for the connections, so we made a 3 inch hole in the wall as shown in the pciture. You can make this hole on the left also if you would like.
	As you can see the indoor unit is installed on the wall. The lineset with insulation, defrost wire, electrical wires and drain pipe are all smoothly pushed out through the hole (shown above). Please remember the indoor unit should be installed horizontally in such a way that the water can easily drain out through the pipe using gravity. We have seen people install it without using the level guide, resulting in tilted installation which finally will result in water leak in house.
	This is the outside view, showing everything as per above.
	This is where the compressor will be placed, since we had an existing concrete pad already. You can go as far as you want with your compressor (50 ft to 100 ft depending upon the model you buy) You can install the compressor on the roof also if you would like.
	We opened the insulation a bit to expose the copper lines to make the connections.
	This shows how the final connection was made and tied together.
	Finally compressor was placed in its position.
	At this point the electrician finished his job by connecting the compressor to the circuit breaker and connecting the electrical wire coming from inside unit to the compressor. If your compressor will be closer than this, it is important to remember that lineset should be minimum 10 ft long to avoid any damage to the compressor. We have seen people place compressor right behind the indoor unit (outside) and then cut the lines to about 7 ft only, resulting in compressor issues. In short you can keep the compressor close to indoor unit, but you can roll the line set to make it longer than 10 ft minimum.
	The adapter on the left is newer R410A adapter, if your contractor don't have one, you can click here to buy one. By now, the HVAC contractor was ready with the tools. He was here on an hourly basis to perform 4 important steps (normally 1-2 hour job max): 1. Connect the lines. 2. Vaccumming the lines, to make sure NO moisture is left in the copper tubings. 3. Checking for the leaks, to ensure the refrigerant won't leak out in case the copper lines had leaks. 4. Finally he will release the refrigerant and make final tests.
	At this point, he is connecting the adapter to connect his tools.
	Making connections.
	Connections made to finally do the above tests.
	Now vacuuming the lines
	Checking for the leaks
	almost done .....
	This is the liquid he sprayed on the lines to make sure there were no leaks.
	Once done, the HVAC contractor can disconnect his tools and use the bolt to secure the compressor to the concrete pad and place rubber pads underneath to avoid vibration. This will be your final layout. You can cover the copper line with anything to give it a final touch. See some examples below.